How to Prepare the Surface Before Painting

Painting itself is only the final step. The real quality of the finish is determined by preparation: correct sanding, degreasing, suitable primers and fillers, and respecting the required flash-off and drying times. Below you will find a clear process and practical quick tips for working with both spray cans and spray guns.

Safety and working conditions: work in a well-ventilated area, use a respirator suitable for organic solvents, protective gloves and safety glasses. Ideal temperature is 20–25 °C, with low humidity and no draughts.

1) Assess the surface and remove old paint if needed

Goal: a matte, solid and clean surface without wax, silicone or loose paint residues.

  • Matting the original paint: in many cases it is enough to remove gloss and surface defects. New paint will not adhere properly to a glossy and smooth surface.
  • Complete paint removal is necessary for unknown or reactive paint systems, old repairs or poor adhesion. Options include mechanical sanding, chemical paint remover, professional chemical stripping or blasting.
  • If you sand through to bare metal, do not leave the surface exposed. Seal it as soon as possible with epoxy primer.

2) Degreasing and sealing the surface

  • Degrease thoroughly before sanding and after sanding to remove sanding dust and contaminants. Use a silicone remover / degreaser and allow it to flash off for a few minutes.
  • Epoxy primer is recommended for bare metal and problematic substrates. Epoxy primer helps prevent corrosion, evens out absorption and blocks possible reactions with residues of old paint layers.
  • Plastic parts: on unpainted or new plastic parts, use a plastic adhesion primer, such as plastic primer, before continuing with the next steps.
Additional note for spray gun use: when spraying epoxy primer, a nozzle size of approx. 1.8–2.0 mm is commonly used.

3) Repairing uneven areas with filler

  • For larger damage or areas where material is missing, use fibreglass filler. For standard smaller repairs, levelling and final shaping, use universal polyester filler.
  • A common example is an alloy wheel scraped against a kerb during parking. For this type of smaller local repair, aluminium filler is a simple and affordable solution for DIY repairs.
  • Apply filler with a flexible spreader in thinner layers and shape the hardened material gradually, typically P80–P120 → P180–P240.
  • Carefully feather the edges of transitions so they are not visible after painting.

4) Filler primer – levelling small imperfections

Filler primer spray is a practical choice for smaller repairs and standard surface preparation. It helps level micro-defects, approximately up to 0.5 mm, and creates a smooth, evenly absorbing surface ready for paint. For larger areas or spray gun work, a spray gun filler primer version can also be used.

  • Drying: approx. 24 hours when air-dried.
  • Sanding: wet sanding P400 → finishing with P600–P800.
  • Filler primer is absorbent – do not store finished parts for a long time only in filler primer. For longer storage, keep the part sealed with epoxy primer.
Additional note for spray gun use: filler primer is a thicker material, so a nozzle size of approx. 1.8–2.0 mm is commonly used. Always follow the recommended thinning ratio, number of coats and drying times.

5) Final preparation before paint

  • Lightly matt the entire surface with Scotch-Brite, using the correct type for the chosen paint system, and check that no glossy spots remain.
  • Carefully remove dust, degrease with silicone remover, allow it to flash off and wipe the surface with an antistatic tack cloth.
  • The surface is now ready for basecoat, effect paint or clear coat.
Most common mistakes:
  • Insufficient degreasing → silicone contamination and craters, often called “fish eyes”.
  • Sanding scratches that are too coarse → visible marks and sanding lines after painting.
  • Sanding too fine or leaving the surface too smooth → poor adhesion of the next layer.
  • Rushing between individual steps or poor surface preparation → weaker adhesion and visible defects after painting.

Quick reference

  • Filler shaping: P80–P120 → P180–P240
  • Filler primer sanding: P400 → P600–P800 for basecoat / effect paint
  • Bare metal: seal with epoxy primer as soon as possible
  • Plastic: use plastic adhesion primer
The same rule applies to both spray cans and spray guns: a well-prepared surface is the foundation of the final result. The actual painting then depends on following the correct process for the selected material – basecoat, number of coats, flash-off times and, where needed, the recommended thinning ratio.

Surface prepared? Now the actual painting can begin.

%s ...
%s
%image %title %code %s